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Romeo and Juliet
Emporia State University
2019
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Costume flat patterned and cut by me.
Time to complete: thirty three hours.
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Costume Designer: Susan Williams
Actress: Mollie McClanahan
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Right: Process photos.
Patterning the sleeve accoring to the designer's sketch.
First fitting, first mockup. The designer, Susan Williams, is marking the neckline.
First fitting, cutting the neckline out.
First fitting. This pattern started with an empire waist, so I also made a bodice sloper and layered them to create a pattern that fit the designer's vision.
First fitting.
First fitting. Notes included tak in the armseyes, shortening the sleeve bands, and adding underarm gussests.
Second fitting, second mockup. Notes included taking in the front along princess seams, adding fullness to the lower section of the sleeves, enlarging the underarm gussets and altering the skirt to have a side seam so that a pocket can be added.
Second fitting.
Cutting out the underskirt.
Cutting out the lace overskirt. The pattern of the lace was denser toword the bottom, so I carfully placed it the same all the way around the skirt.
Third fitting, third mockup. Notes included taking in the armseye again.
Third fitting.
Third fitting. I had to extend the underarm gussest even more so the actress could reach her arm over her head in a dance performed in the show.
Third fitting. We experimented with a mesh backing to help keep the dress up while giving the appearence of a low neckline.
I doubled the pattern for the bodice front because in order to fit the actress more closly the left and right sides were not symmetrical.
Cutting the underlayer of the bodice.
Cutting the lace overlay for the bodice. I cut out inversions of the bodice pattern in order the line up the pattern of the lace perfectly.
Cutting out the bodice overlay.
Cutting out the sleeve puffs. When patterning the sleeves, I was instucted to add as much fullness as I could fit on this piece of fabric.
Fourth fitting. The designer decided to change to a rounded neckline, and raise the skirt off the floor.
Fourth fitting. The skirt had to be taken apart and lifted at the waist so as to not lose the lace detail at the hem.
Cutting the new neckline.
Fifth and final fitting.
Fifth fitting.
Final dress.
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